Four days in the reserved seat, or 20 myths about the long trip by train
• Four days in the reserved seat, or 20 myths about the long trip by train
Tell Pasha and Lena - the guys who left the warm and cozy offices and exchanged work and home on adventure and travel: "Our train journey from Moscow to Thailand started January 5 with four moving train Moscow - Ulan-Ude. For completeness, we have emotions in a second-class train tickets. I am writing these lines a few hours before arriving at the final point, and we can already state that we survived. And not just survived, but spent time with dignity.
Before the trip we were in the minds of a lot of myths about the long trip by train. But, as so often happens in life, everything turned out quite differently, as before told us travelers and we read in the forums. Below, we debunk some common myths about rail marathon. "
People will constantly change. For four days the train passes through many small towns and big cities. On average, there is a stop every hour or two. The centers should train for 30-40 minutes, the regions can go for a walk along the platform, and make up for a couple of minutes at the small station stop, during which the parachute must go, and new passengers - to throw briskly down the platform to the desired car and break into the train.
Well, about a third of our car rides on a distance even greater than we are. Get at least a second-class neighbors in the "coupe": grandmother with her granddaughter go from Moscow to Chita Region (traveled by train to his uncle in Tambov, and now return home) - nearly five days of travel each way. Man on the top shelf in front of us sat in Yekaterinburg and will go to almost six days before the end of the train route to the far Amur region. Of course, migration between cities located at a distance of 500-1000 km from each other, is also present (e.g., Novosibirsk and between adjacent Krasnoyarsk), but it is not mass. By the way, in our carriage to Vlad nobody went. REMOVAL Moscow - Vladivostok takes seven days, during which time the train passes 9300 km.
The passengers will be soundly thump, especially in the Urals and Siberia. hotbeds of tension formed only once: several men were drinking vodka, pouring it directly into the tea (in the open on the train for a long time nobody drinks). The meal ended with a loud conducting interviews and soliciting for passengers, but then came the conductor, and said that if he hears even one sound or a complaint from a passenger, then summon outfit train the police and all the noisy chafing at the nearest station, will transfer to the local police, and the ticket is canceled . After that, the men instantly fell silent, went to their beds, and in half an hour team already snoring in unison.
All will constantly have smelly food: cold boiled chicken, eggs, and breakfast, lunch and dinner, the entire train will be together to brew instant noodles to eat. In fact the food is not particularly stink, chicken no one had, smoked fish in a confined space nobody ate, and beach-bags if brewed, not all at once and not every meal. About the fact that out of the food is worth taking a long trip, read this week in our blog.
Do not bathe for four days is impossible. On the Internet there is information that every train Vladivostok - Moscow is equipped with a shower. So, we can say about our train (number 100/99): no showers in him. Our hygiene procedures is to daily wiping with a wet towel, a change of underwear, as well as washing and brushing. Handy and dry shampoo in the shower :), of course, desirable, and this is the first thing we do when set foot on terra firma, but some fear about the cleanliness we have not experienced. Perhaps in the summer, this may be critical due to the unconditioned superzhary cars.
The time will last indefinitely. The observations of the life of the other passengers and your device, reading e-books, listen to music and audio books, as well as conducting an online chronicle of events in our groups "VKontakte" and "Facebook" and instagramah time passed quickly.
We will die of boredom. Of course, to look out the window at the Russian was often problematic: even in the daytime window mercilessly sweating and no wiping is not helping. But the constant walks along the platform, and even a little city at major stations, sitting for tea kettle in the dining car and conversations with fellow travelers helped to pass the time.
After Urals polvagona will be cons and different dashing guys (information from the Internet). In fact, in the Urals and Siberia, the public greatly simplified (eg, Krasnoyarsk "landing" strongly smelled of stale, and the Urals sat a man in tattered socks, pants and a T-shirt in the blood), but no thieves' songs, clubs prison interests or arrivals on we did not. With us in the compartment was traveling man, who put in a cup of tea and a few bags of them for a long time insisted, but whether it is a habit "chifir" of the colonies, we do not know. When Pasha pulled out a strange charge the phone from the wall outlet (the owner was not around) to half an hour pozaryazhat his own, and then put in place, immediately declared the owner of the vehicle and called Pasha "fraerkom". Again, not the vocabulary of the conservatory, but who knows where it is so decided to talk.
The views from the train window will - sight for sore eyes! There are no mountains and steppes we are out of the window did not see, and all of 5000 km from Moscow to Ulan-Ude watched the snowy forest of birch and fir trees, rare villages with similar wooden houses, the smoke from the pipes and plates "Tricolor TV" and polustanochke with bus stops. Is that the landscape has changed in the Irkutsk region: there were hills, and the road became twisty, because of what the train greatly swayed.
In Siberia, we are waiting for hard frost. Here and justified, and no. Frost in Siberia and the truth is, at the stations where we fatten 30-40 minutes, and it was minus 20, minus 30, but some anomalies are not present in the behavior of the inhabitants of these cities (go on as if nothing had happened) or even by personal feelings (yes, it's cold, but even to walk real). Frost seen quite a tolerant if dressed for the season, and the sun and the lack of wind added comfort. Mansion was Tyumen, where highly swept at minus 25: such weather for exploring not suitable dimensions.
In the dining car will sit large and noisy company. In fact, there is almost no one there, a few times we were the only customers. Passengers traveling on the train a few days instead of a few hours on a plane not a good life, and the desire to save a few thousand, so budget food purchased in advance or on the road do not spend money.
The toilet is always full of smoke, because smoking is not allowed in the vestibule, and long stops are only a few times a day. In reality, no one was smoking in the toilets, and for half an hour at the stations smokers time to smoke a few cigarettes to smoke a lot to the next. By the way, smoking on the platform and can not be, but the police did not pursue smokers, closing his eyes to the violation.
At each more or less train station will be to attack the crowd of grandmothers with pies and home-made food. The vendors have seen a couple of times, purchases made in the small shops that are at the main station located right on the platform.
passengers more social activity. Almost all the time the way the passengers sleep: in the morning and in the evening, at night and even during the day, sleeping twenty hours a day, and in between going to sleep drink tea, brewed instant noodles to eat, guess crossword puzzles. Books almost nobody reads, and the movie is not looking. Several people were playing cards, backgammon and checkers.
After a few days, and in the car, and the toilet will stink unbearably. Toilet cleaned several times a day (even put almost transparent and rough toilet paper, such as paper towels and soap), and in the car wash floors and spend a minimum wet cleaning. In general, the smell is not strong. Although roses, of course, Fifty-four people in one car does not smell sweet.
No problems with windows will not. Trouble came from not waiting :) On the windows are constantly flowing and sometimes drops dripped directly onto the pillow and on his head sleeping on the bottom shelf of the Pasha (Lena our couple sleeps on the top, he loves "height"). And flowed over the wall, and on the head of a sleeping dripping approximately every half hour, reminding the famous torture, but in slow motion. Windows surrounded the napkins, but this temporary measure: napkins gaining moisture, then still start to pass it on. Can not solve the problem, one lady even the head of the train complained, but to no avail. A Pasha for four nights, a new habit of sleeping on the edge of the pillow and put under her arm.
No internet on the go. We wrote on the forums that the Internet in Siberia is only in large cities, between which nothing catches. Upon Gameday somewhat exaggerated: in the taiga is no connection there, but when we pass at least a small town, there is the Internet, and even 4G, sometimes catches.
Precast myth about the ethnic composition of the car. On the Internet, you wrote that while riding through Siberia half car will be Chinese, Kirghiz, Buryats and other Asian nations. It turned out the same as in the Urals and Siberia with us went to the main Russian, however, is closer to the Irkutsk region in the car there were some passengers with a narrow eye slit.
The problem with charging gadgets. In the car, there are only a few outlets, and wanting to charge a lot. But with due patience can catch the moment when the socket is free, and come with your phone. Many passengers leave their smart phones on the platform at the toilet and go, but we did not do so, and dressed in a jacket (in the vestibule cool) and guarded their devices. And not just because they were afraid of theft, but also for moral reasons, and then leave the phone and leave for four hours, and so many survived - many loaded :) But to charge laptops and use the tees, which we very much hope failed : nout officially forbidden to charge and use banned tee conductor.
Explorer - if not a very easy and pleasant, it is not the hardest profession in the world. By train Moscow - Vladivostok in each car run successive two conductors. Seven days later they go there, seven days back, and then two weeks of rest. Unlike the train Moscow - St. Petersburg, where placing a passenger in the evening and pour them tea in the morning and no cleanups are foreseen in the "All-Russian" a large number of stops the train at any time of the day, where entering and leaving dozens of passengers.
The train you need to keep clean, and in parking lots, in addition to checking tickets, conductors duties included cleaning of the vestibule of snow and ice deposits spalling scrap with the rolling stock car. So several times a day the conductor turns to the janitor! And there are passengers with complex characters, forever screaming children leaning cons and drinkers to squirrels. In general, the lower the bow conductors and conductors for their hard work.
Total unsettled life in the train. Although double insulated room with a wardrobe of our upper and lower shelves for the trip and were not able to build a life well - it was all over the place, all that is needed, lay at hand.
Do you want to ever repeat our second-class experience? Then hurry: Railways pursues a consistent policy of repression utility wagons. One of the measures is an increase in ticket prices (on the route Moscow - Ulan-Ude, for example, the 2016 tickets worth 4500 rubles, and in 2017 - already 6800 rubles). However, much can not be in a hurry, according to the same Railways, they have 80% of passengers travel was reserved seat, and transplanted all this army budget in a more expensive and unusual coupe them will be very difficult.