How the Pamir house
• How does the Pamir house
It turns out, it is currently possible to visit the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of Tajikistan, but did not see the way of life of local residents. The more that civilization, which changes the life of people more comfortable, but instead takes the age-old traditions, even in the most remote corners of our planet each year comes.
And it was the "immersion in the atmosphere" - this is probably exactly what we appreciate most in a faraway trip. And in that day the fate especially contributed to this.
After strolling through the ancient fortress Kaah-Kha, we are driving just a hundred meters, we saw one-storey building with an interesting coloring. Needless to say, that curiosity has once again gained the upper hand?
Broken fountains at the entrance. Once the lions from the jaws of flowing water. The door was ajar, we knocked and went inside.
As it turned out, it was a museum. An elderly Tajik superintendent first seemed a little angry, but actually it was not so. By the way, pay attention to the picture of the fortress behind him - the same tower the east entrance, we almost missed.
- Aa travelers? From Russia? Remarkably, go! Now I'll show you all and tell you!
Grandpa Lenin and horns of cattle. We immediately became clear that the museum would be interested.
At the next table located an impressive collection of minerals found in these parts.
- Sometimes foreigners come to see me, I showed them the stones, so some are beginning to shake as many hands. Sell, they say, they say. And I selling it? It's a museum piece, the wealth of these places. I can not sell, and do not have the right. And some are even offended.
It turns out that in the Wakhan valley many ancient castles that were not marked on my map. The caretaker told in detail about each of them, and the next few days we will travel on this picture, using it for navigation. :)
A quote from the travel diary:
We drove past the museum, decided to stay. Very colorful grandfather told us about the castle, household items, clothing ..
... show how to use flint and spark-fueled fire.
He told me about the history of the Wakhan Valley, as the Afghans attacked as Tajikistan wanted to be under the auspices of the Russian Empire.
After that, in these areas there was a civilization, as in Afghanistan, only now beginning to emerge school, and yet they have a big decline in population due to disease and lack of medicine.
Julia tries a museum piece - bracelet handmade with semiprecious stones.
In Europe, on the finger wearing a ring, and in this region the woman hung on the belt's metal such triangles with interesting patterns as a sign that its owner is married.
Behind the bust of Lenin - the founder of the lineage of the museum up to the beginning of the ancient kind.
home wares. Millstones that grind flour, water dishes, pots, baskets for carrying things and more.
And then my grandfather showed us traditional Pamir house and told me about his device. For more "immersion in the atmosphere of" we are dressed in traditional robes locals. Very dense fabric warms and protects from the wind. superintendent also advised Julia to go exclusively with his head covered in these parts, to "pass for a local." :)))
I do not know exactly who painted this portrait, but the quality of performance of the work is very high, and the deep and wise look image of a man, they say, sinks into the soul.
So go to Pamir house. Five pillars in honor of the Holy Family of Shiites - chief among them Muhammad (one who taught people to pray - the farthest from my post), his cousin Ali (far right symbolizes the devotion and respect for the contract), the daughter of Muhammad Bibi Fotima Zuhro (middle left , patroness of water and women), which he gave to his wife, Ali, and their two sons at the entrance - imam Hasan (earth) and imam Hussein (fire). recent death has led to the largest and most serious raskula within Islam: Shiites (a minority) and Sunnis (90%).
The overlap above the door called Buchkovach (symbol of the sky, which is traditionally cut solar symbols in the form of crosswise arranged beams, wheels and swastikas), and there is a place of sacrifice ( "goat place").
The sacred aspect Buchkovach indicates the boundary between heaven and earth. By her mid-beat horns of a mountain goat to protect the house from evil spirits.
The Pamir house ( "Chid") is a religious shrine and a symbol of purity for each Ismaili. The house consists of a three-level deck. First level - near and around the place a fire means "the inanimate world," The second level, which is set up in and around the first level is "flora" or "vegetative soul" third deck level - set above the second level, and means "the animal world "or" sensual soul. " Due to the fact that the first level represents the "inanimate, non-living world," that is set much lower than the second and third level.
The final element of the Pamir house is "Chorhona" - step chetyrehyarusny dome mounted above the beams in the middle of the room. Each tier represents kakuyu- any element. The first tier represents the "House of the Earth", the second tier - "House of Water", the third level - "House of the Wind" and the fourth, the top tier represents the "House of Fire". Fourth tier at the same time symbolizes the sun, it is open to the penetration of light and is set to last.
It is believed that through this opening takes place in the house natural natural and divine ray of light. This hole having a diameter of about 0, 75m, called ruz. At night it is closed to retain heat.
In the symbolism of the Pamir house Ruz is a sacred center of the umbilical cord through which the inhabitants of the house communicate with the heavens. No wonder since ancient times Pamir house serves not only to protect from the weather, but also the temple, where they offered sacrifices and prayers are said - people communicate with God.
In fact, for the two hours we spent in the museum, his caretaker told us a lot and a lot of interesting things about the house and how life improvement, and about the history of these places. From offered us money for an interesting tour, he refused, saying that the already very pleased the few visitors. But he asked to be left in the guest book, and then send the photos through the mail.
Ranger name Mirzoyev one Hamad. If you pass the "lower" of the road Ishkashim in Gorno-Badakhshan - I would highly recommend this museum to visit, learn a lot of new and interesting. Watered farewell tea, the grandfather said goodbye to us.
Well, we go further. The road is one.
That is something like I imagined a line of high mountains, but not enough sun. By the way, the four gloomy days in a row in the Pamirs - a real weather anomaly, and one told us that even in his time did not recall this.
Next, we have a new plan was a fortress Darshan, by which, if not done in a museum photo card, we would have passed on. Here is the way to go. If you do not know about it - you will not find in life.
In fact, the ruins of an ancient fortress. Once it occupied a considerable area on several levels, but now there was only a pile of rubble, which can be understood about the buildings of the border.
walls. I wonder what they covered the windows, because glass is not it? Even in summer it is cold and strong wind, let alone what happened in the winter - it is terrible to imagine.
If you go to the edge of the hill on which stands the fortress, at the bottom you can see the mountain river, very noisy and dirty water.
Maybe we wonder climbed to the top of the hill, just to see these stones.
On the other hand - the Pamirs, ancient ruins, Vakhan Valley, Afghanistan, on the far side of the earth ... When we visited here yet?
A lonely tree on a small island in the middle of the Panj River.
In general, during the course of a long journey of thoughts and your needs are gradually beginning to change. Home numerous advertising around constantly assures that you necessarily need to buy something new. And I remember the feeling of joy when we saw a small waterfall and realized that you can replenish the water on board.
Another loner. Trees, as you can see, there are not so often.
The gorge and the high mountains.
A little closer.
Not the first time, but still found a great place for an overnight stay. The rise of the hill was quite steep, but it meant that no one will disturb us today.
Chatting night with my wife, we were wondering who was depicted on the portrait in the museum ...