Tales of ancient Rovinj
Rovinj - is a magical city, a warm, homey and bright inviting person open the gate and take a step towards a small miracle. I propose to you today to walk with me on the old bridge, take a look at the sky overhead and the light spilled from the streetlights soft yellow light. And yet - at the local inhabitants, who kotontroliruyut entire city.
In Rovinj we arrived only in the evening. It was 7 hours, was 4 hours for filming. Well, what can be done in 4 hours? Sit on the beach at the cafe and meditate looking at the sea, boats and beautiful islands, which lie around the canister hill-town? Nope, not good at all. My plan was to find a cozy patios, and something special for yourself. Opening. Expedition!
By the way, parking in Rovinj great, even in high season you will find a place. It is located at the very pier, so the city immediately opens you ascended cloud over the calm sea.
Many people say that the city is like a drop in the air. And to me more like a bug that crawled ashore to soak up the warm Istrian sun (Istria - is a peninsula of Croatia). On the shell of the turtle lots of red flakes: it is the roofs covered with tiles. And the old deep cracks in the shell. And this is the very streets of Rovinj, ancient, sometimes old, sometimes elegant. Just one of these we nyrnom.
from a variety of parts, shapes and colors comes rereadings from an emotions surge. I would like to listen to, listen to, watch. The ancient walls of the city are invited, is drawn into the whirlpool center of night life. There's even a normal wall of the narrow streets of the beautifully decorated.
The locals are engaged mainly in the care of tourists, construction crafts and just sitting in the sun on the cozy streets.
By the way, is very similar to Italy, Venice. I can judge only on postcards from Venice, where I had not yet, but I dream to visit. And labels, signs are always duplicated in Italian. Apparently, history, cultural affinity, and just neighboring position to the feature. Even the name of the city are almost always comes in conjunction Rovinj-Rovigno, Croatian-Italian. Not to mention the names of streets and cafes. Italian it here, too, you can often hear. And the fact that the bug is sometimes resembles more and "boot" - generally inexcusable ...
So what's the deal? Why Italy has left a mark on this town? And the thing is that the city with a 1283 to 1797 was under the patronage of Venice. Rovinj was then an influential and important for the Republic of Venice port. The town then was surrounded by walls and protected from attacks from the sea. And by the way, the old part, which is just out into the sea turtle was actually an island. Apparently, local residents tortured to pass over the bridge to the island - and the Strait bombarded by attaching so uncomplicated way the island to the main land.
Looking at these clumsy homes and an abundance of different styles that come to mind different ideas about how to build and grow the city. After all, the city even during the patronage of Venice is not just exciting, for example, Genoa. Or the event of an uprising of local residents against the rule of the Venetians. Here is another foray into pirates or smugglers, incendiary projectiles spread into splinters rickety structure. Dust, smoke, fire grasped overlap - and burned the whole street. Attack beat off - and on the site of the burnt ashes quarter grow at home, in a new style, fit the era, all the above is closely remaining houses. Those dissatisfied with their new "low" position, finish building new floors ... So passed five hundred years under the auspices of its neighbors - and the city has come to resemble a small Venice. Only without the channels.
Sometimes the same elegant, rich color ...
You go on such streets, in dark alleys - and imagine, cautiously glancing at granny in a window that you are now on your head will spill or slop fall debris. After all, in Europe, with the purity and the environment at that time it was tight ... But gas lanterns appeared here only in the early 20th century. Prior to that, the narrow streets, probably lit by candles and gas lamps.
In the 17-18 centuries Rovinj has a special influence among all the cities of Istria as the main port and shipbuilding center. By the end of the 18th century lived in the city for about 14 thousand people, as well as now. That is, in the architecture of buildings and the number of storeys, apparently, little had changed. So what we're looking at a real open-air museum of the 18th century.
In the early 19th century, the city also can not possibly be left alone: first - the fall of the Venetian Republic to the establishment of self-government, then the seizure of power by the French in 1809, Napoleon's government. And already in 1813 the restoration of Austrian sovereignty.
Almost a century has passed, but the Italians still did not let go of Rovinj. Since 1918 (the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire), the city came under the influence of the Italians, that is actually lost sovereignty. After the Second World War Rovinj was a part of Yugoslavia, but it is now in Croatia.
Over-shelled turtles in our stands the Cathedral of St.. Evfemii, tallest building in the Baroque style. Tower height - 62 meters, and climb up there can be quite easy (I do, unfortunately, did not know - and slipped immediately remove the old city streets).
It is said, according to legend, a young girl Evfemiyu in the IV century for another faith as a punishment thrown in cage with lions. Lions touch it did not, but she then still executed. In her memory, and the Cathedral was built. And on the steeple - turning in the wind profile of the martyr, in the metal. The cathedral itself, in its present form, was built in the 18th century, and it was founded back in the 10th century.
But enough of history! Just walk through the streets, look at the local flavor. Rovintsev general often plagued by tourists, putting their cameras. Many people are already familiar movements try to look away, but the moment you can still catch.
It is amazing, but the entire city - in stone. All laid cobblestones, patched plaster. In order to somehow brighten up life in the stone people plant flowers, palm trees are grown in tubs. Other streets - like flower Avenue, a sea of flowers on the sides, and on every window!
Under the narrow arches, lower door necessarily hides a shop or café.
According to the Rovinj's just nice to walk without guides, diving into any favorite gateway.
There are very fond of bright colors, especially red.
Another story - about the city shutters. In Croatia, a lot of attention is drawn to the window, on the shutters: in each city they have their own style. Now a lot of plastic windows and soulless, but preserved and very old, overgrown with flowers already.
And that's the purpose of our expedition - little hungry creatures that have captured the whole city! These balls rolling on the streets of Rovinj and beg to eat every tourist like very hungry.
Here is one of them, he held me for a whole tour of the neighborhoods of Rovinj - so I tried to dart away behind him. Nimble.
But he showed me the beautiful courtyards, away from the main tourist routes. In June in Rovinj was, by the way, not so many people. Some streets were completely empty.
And this fellow is obviously just a tasty meal fish.
But still begging.
- There Che, photographer ?!
M? Oh, please, fish, Murcus.
But the fish I had with him, and burst may Kotya greed. They live well here hurt. But they have sworn furry friends.
Some very interesting. This fellow is wrong with me friends that became a friend for life, I do not want to move away from the foot. I had to drag his master in the house. Whined desperately, tears almost came.
A first trembling with fear to meet with me.
and run from the camera.
But this fellow I sniff and bark furiously, apparently guarding your yard and the owner. And with a haughty air, his tail, while backing away and looking around, and departed.
Yes, and the absence of lampposts and unified communications has made his case: look up, and there - a cobweb of wires, ropes underwear. We have it looked disgusting. And then - no, in Rovinj, this grid gently woven into the urban skeleton as blood vessels - spends his life in the house.
In the courtyard, I wandered by accident. In Rovinj there is a very interesting street, Grisia. Her local artists exhibit their works of art. There are many galleries and beautiful pictures for the fabulous price.
It seems that every house on this street Croats took a shop, cafe or gallery. At the same time, they look very appropriate, and only emphasize the style of the city. This court can easily be found, turned off the Grizz in one of the lanes. This is probably the most picturesque courtyard in the whole of Croatia ...
This is a cozy room, curtained fragile fabrics, furnished with chairs with twisted legs, and with the incredible number of little things that make it close, which wants to dissolve and relax. Every detail has a soul, pictures come alive, and wooden boats floating on the sea loose walls of the 18th century.
Let's get acquainted with another inhabitant of Rovinj. It housecat immediately obvious - loves to brush up.
It is interesting that the inhabitants of Rovinj on the ground floors of residential buildings typically garages or places of workshops (managed to corner of his eye look). Some even keep there fishing gear. This cat lived in one of these rooms, garages.
After 8 pm it seems that the city sleeps. There are almost no tourists, only languidly strolling lonely locals:
In Rovinj very fond of dry clothes. Sometimes it seems that it is done specifically for tourists, for the color. Although no balcony in these houses.
Sometimes you forget that the whole city is laid in stone. Even in an old courtyard - green, hiding the scars of the past.
For the evening begins. On the pier is much livelier: then walk both local and tourists. On the square - the market, working late summer. You can buy any souvenirs, and delicious, and useless ... Tourists ride to see the sunset.
Here it is - the little Venice ...
This is just the very street Grisia, the street-gallery. Here goes main stream of tourists.
And the few, by the way, resolved to go into the dark doorway.
Almost all the streets, sooner or later will lead you upstairs to the temple of the Holy. Evfemii.
The most beautiful time for filming in Rovinj - Evening, "the modal time." When the lights are already lit, but the sky is not yet extinguished. Then the yellow light lights diluted beautiful diffused light from the sky.
It is a pity that it takes less than half an hour. Although all the streets of the old part of Rovinj can be run just for this time. If much in a hurry, of course. But in this town do not want to hurry. It seems that he is stuck in the 18th century, and in 21 minutes is not going to move.
Arch streets, lights ... Bridge then polished by the feet of millions of tourists to shine. Therefore, even without rain pours beautifully light on the mirror stone.
I think for designers and decorators need to arrange special trips to Rovinj. Here you can learn how neat and unobtrusive advertising and stores in the city's appearance.
In places that are not illuminated by lanterns, put the candle. It's a great solution: a very comfortable and pleasant. And because someone supports flame every evening!
Some homes look like giants frozen in a rush to take another step on the pavement. Live at home, they wink shutters, accentuated eyebrows, peeling plaster, clumsy, waddling stand. Old good-natured guards! You still guarding the city from disaster, and rejoice with his people the wonderful views.
The sounds of the city is also interesting to listen to. The good-natured laughter of German tourists, sounds of dishes in a cafe, and a quiet alley - the city lives and breathes.
In Rovinj is interesting to walk without a map. Without limiting ourselves routes, roads - just walk aimlessly, towards a new lane.
And here it is almost impossible to get lost: a tiny town like a toy.
Sometimes I can not believe it's all real. Just a good fairy tale, which you get for a few hours. Dream within a dream. He returned to the court, in church, trying not to disturb the dream.
Again, Grisia. When zaplutal of Rovinj, you can always go to her and take a new landmark.
Warm light illuminates the lights cozy streets.
The locals love to communicate with each other. This is probably one of the few cities where you can still meet more local than tourists in the evenings.
Again, to small inhabitants of Rovinj! Here is seen the enemy patrol.
Although the black racial struggle together against the red.
Instead chopovtsev each gallery has its own reliable protection.
Sometimes the groups are facing each other.
Or come to the "arrow" in dark alleys.
Although all ends peacefully: since all well-fed and happy, why do they need a war?
And this is - a typical residential courtyard of Rovinj. Rich and "European" it will not name, but there is something nice in it, in spite of the confusion and crumbling walls.
In Rovinj on any weekday everything is so smart that it seems as if it's Christmas.
The night is already covered Rovinj her veil.
It's time to go home.
Meanwhile, Rovinj! You're me as a close friend. Easy to open your soul to a stranger good-natured, accept and tell their difficult history. And in response I would like to thank you warm words of this short story.